Only the second season and our roses are already blooming as if they have been established for years! Here's what worked:
~ Sunlight. Nothing substitutes for full sun
~ Flower-tone or Rose-tone.
~Mulch. In early May or late April
~ Watering. Weekly directly into the soil
~ Non-competing plants. Love smaller boxwoods.
The new Dawn was inducted into the World Federation of Rose Societies “Hall of Fame” in 1997.
New Dawn Rose was a happy accident derived from a variety of the Dr. Van fleet Rose.
The first U.S. Plant Patent Number 1 to ever be issued was for the "New Dawn" in August of 1931. It was issued to New Jersey resident Henry Bosenberg for the New Dawn "characterized by its everblooming habit.”
Glossy dark leaves surround the New Dawn semi-double blooming roses.
The blooms bear light pink petals. The exact color can be described as a very light pink, or even a "champagne" colored petal.
These petals are lighter and sweet in contrast to its deep green leaves. The foliage appears darker compared to other climbing varieties.
Height: Mature at 8 to12 feet
Width: Given the space to weave, these climbers will branch out laterally at 5 to 6 feet.
Zone Hardiness: Zone 5b - 9. SG has had great success planting in Zone 6 (after all, the New Dawn was first discovered in none other than Somerset NJ!).
Environment: a sunny spot with a good breeze for enough exposure and air circulation.
From Scarlett's Garden, tips for training climbing roses
Before planting, we found a spot that receives sun for most of the day (at least 6 hours of direct exposure) that faces east.
The structure can be a fence or trellis that can carry the weight of the roses once mature. Depending on the rose variety, these climbers are known reach up to 20 feet (and get heavy), so space and strength of the structure is key.
Prepare to dig with enough depth so the root ball of the plant meets the level of the ground. The area we chose already had about 2" mulch to work with, which is recommended when planting climbing roses. After loosening the base of the plant, we placed the plant to angle the stems slightly toward the structure where the roses will get the most sun early in the afternoon. We then backfilled with organic soil that we dug up, mixed in compost, topping it off with rose-tone before the initial watering.
We have been training our roses to grow at a lateral direction instead of straight up in order to get the most density out of the booms. Using ties to the structure are also helpful, but we suggest using lose ties to avoid inhibiting growth or plant damage. Also, well-drained soil and March pruning are sure to help our roses continue to climb! We learned that it's best to avoid pruning the more aggressive stems, and instead training these to climb through the structure, which should pay off with more vigorous growth.
After the fall leaves drop and before the winter, prune out old or non-producing canes at their base, then work outward to thin and remove closely packed stems.
Remember, even after fertilizing with planting, it's recommended to continue to fertilize, especially again after the first bloom.
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